Monday, April 30, 2012

Telling it how it is.


Today was the longest day in the history of longest days. After a relaxing long weekend in Aqaba, I returned to a full day of classes including two presentations. Tomorrow is the doomsday of both my Modern Standard and Colloquial Finals, so I went to a cafĂ© to study with a friend. After several hours of productive studying, periodically alternating with hookah and conversation sidetracks, I hopped in a taxi to head home. The driver was nice and seemed normal, asking about my Arabic skills and if I could understand the lyrics to the song on the radio. As we turned a corner, a woman was crossing the street. As if right out of the documentary on harassment I had seen earlier in the semester, he leaned out the window to holler some unsavory epithets. Then he turns to inform me, “She is a bitch.”

            Of course my jaw dropped and I instantly responded, “Ya haram!” “What, she is not nice. What is haram?” I quickly informed him of his rude behavior and how unkind and hurtful that word could be, but he only responded, “Isn’t this what you do in America?” I eagerly informed him that we respect women in America, and that he should do the same. When he blew me off, I asked if he had sisters. He said no, so I asked if his mother had taught him to respect women.  He laughed and said he lived by himself in the middle of the ocean. I insisted, “Even the fish know to treat women with respect.”

            I’m sure he was not used to such a dramatic response to his typical catcalls and he could that I was not very happy. He apologized and said again that he knew this was not normal in Jordan, but it must be normal in America. I was quick to assure him of the opposite. After months of stares, whistles, whispers, and direct confrontations of “pretty lady” and “yes, please,” I had about had it. As he pulled to the front of my building he apologized again. I assured him it was okay, but that he should not talk to women like that.

            Although I’m sure he’ll be back to his catcalling ways tomorrow, I feel so invigorated that it doesn’t matter. I got to say exactly how I feel and finally got to let go and tell an immature, rude niswangi (literally translated: woman lover) exactly what his problem was. Although I did it as diplomatically as possible, it was a completely therapeutic experience. He asked why, when I was “so young”, was I studying so far away from home and I assured him, “Don’t worry, I’m learning here too.”

Friday, April 20, 2012

Differences

As I sit working on homework, I'm gonna procrastinate by making a list of things that are noticeably different in Jordan :)
1. Call to Prayer: Five times a day, hearing the call projected from all the mosques in the area. The call to prayer also differs from place to place. It was cool to hear it in Aqaba, Istanbul, and Izmir as well as Amman.
2. Taxis and Traffic: There are basically no enforced driving laws in Amman, it's insane. The honking in incesssant. In taxis, women should sit in the backseat. Also, it's typically not a good idea for women to get real chatty with the drivers because marriage proposals are not uncommon. On the other hand, it's often a great chance for guys to practice their colloquial. Also, it's important to make sure the taxi driver uses the meter properly and doesn't try to screw you over, which happens all the time.
3. The Seperation of the Sexes: Walking on UJ campus, its easy to see the seperation. Most of the time it seems as if they don't go to class at all and just spend all day staring awkwardly at each other, with occassional harrassing cat calls. Apparently calling a girl a duck or a banana is enticing...
4. Food: I want my damn french toast/pancakes/waffles already! Although my host family doesn't eat the typical zait and zatar for breakfast, they usually skip it all together.  Lunch is typically as expected. Dinner, however, seems to be at  4pm in my house, which is very strange for my appetite clock. Still, that means we have a little snack and tea at about 8 or 9 every night, and I will definitely try to bring that back home with me. Oh, and in case I didn't mention it: breadbreadbreadbread, chicken and rice, rice and chicken, ricericerice, breadbreadbreadbreadbread. And no milk.
5. Clothes and Style: For guys: black leather jackets are a must. Hair gel is preferred. Lots of it.
For girls: Hijabs are the norm, but are not everywhere. Makeup, especially a lot on the eyes is a good thing. Legs should be covered, therefore jeans (typically very tight) are typical. But even a hint of a clavicle indicates your surely deviant attitude. It's also interesting to note than even under the long form-hiding trenchcoats worn by many girls, sparkly colorful high heels can often be found underneath.

That's enough for now, but I'm sure I'll hit another procrastination streak soon!

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Spring Break in Turkey

Friday March 30th:  Slept in, had a wonderful breakfast including milk, coffee, and pancakes (!)
                                 Topkapi Palace and Harem (!)
                                 Hohum lunch with a stunning view of Sultanahmet
                                 The Blue Mosque (!)
                                 The Basilica Cistern
                                 Exploring the Great Bazaar
                                 Night out on Istiklal, Celebrating Christian's Birthday
                                 Came back to the hotel and watched UK in the Final Four (!)
Saturday March 31st: Same wonderful morning as before, including more sleep
                                    Spa and Pool with Hannah and Alex (!)
                                    Kebab lunch in Sultanahmet
                                    Hagia Sophia (!)
                                   Wet, blustery ferry ride across Bosphorous for dinner in a floating restaurant
Sunday April 1st: More pancakes and coffee
                             Sunny walk to Bebek on the coast-quite expensive/bad food, but beautiful view (!)
                             Istiklal Take II- Best Night of the Trip (!) and UK wins the NCAA Championship
Monday April 2nd: I love pancakes and coffee.
                                Spice Bazaar
                                Mexican lunch?
                                Ferry Ride Take II- Much improved, including an old fashioned ice cream shop
Tuesday April 3rd: Drive to Gallipoli Memorials
                               Troy Ruins
                                Long drive to Izmir-Finally crashed at Helin's house
Wednesday April 4th: Sleep is good. Wonderful breakfast on the back porch.
                                     Wine tasting in Shyringe (!)
                                     Cereal for dinner, fell asleep early
Thursday April 5th: Sightseeing in Izmir, courtesty of Helin's Mom's Boyfriend
                                 Dinner with Helin's Mom's and her friend Charlotte-Efes and Pizza
Friday April 6th: Breakfast courtesy of Helin's Mom--can you tell I've missed breakfast?
                            Shopping in the Izmir Bazaar, with Chay and Argila
                            Dinner where Helin's Mom's Boyfriend sings, quite beautifully I might add...
                            Ice Cream Stroll to Clock Tower Square, where we were acosted by Turkish teenagers and babies--excellent end to and excellent week.